Why Change Strings?
Strings wear out. Dirt, oil from your fingers and tiny dents where they press against the frets make them sound dull, feel rough and struggle to stay in tune. If your guitar has lost its sparkle, or tuning has become unreliable, new strings are usually the cheapest improvement you can make.
How often to change them depends on how much you play and how your hands affect them. Some players change every few weeks, others every few months. Change them when they sound dead, feel gritty, show discolouration, or will not stay in tune.
What You Need
- A new set of strings in the right type for your guitar (steel strings for acoustic or electric, nylon for classical).
- A string winder (optional but saves time).
- Wire cutters.
- A tuner.
- A soft cloth.
Never put steel strings on a guitar built for nylon strings. The tension is much higher and can damage the instrument.
One at a Time or All at Once?
Changing strings one at a time keeps tension on the neck and makes it easy to see how each string was fitted. Removing them all at once lets you clean the fretboard and frets properly. Either approach is fine for most guitars. On guitars with floating tremolo bridges, changing one string at a time helps keep the bridge balanced.
Removing the Old Strings
Lower the tension on each string by turning the tuning peg until the string is slack. Do not cut strings while they are at full tension; it can damage the finish and it is a sudden jolt to the neck. Once slack, unwind from the post, or cut the string near the middle and remove both halves.
This is a good moment to wipe down the fretboard and body with a dry cloth.
Acoustic Guitars: Bridge Pins
Most steel-string acoustics hold the strings at the bridge with pins.
- Pull the old bridge pin out. If it is stuck, push gently from inside the soundhole, or use the slot on a string winder designed for this. Avoid prying with metal tools against the bridge.
- Put the ball end of the new string into the bridge hole, then push the pin in with its groove facing the string.
- Pull the string gently upward while pressing the pin down. You want the ball end to lodge against the underside of the bridge plate, not against the tip of the pin. A slight tug and a push of the pin will seat it.
Electric Guitars: Through-Body or Stop Tailpiece
On many electrics, the string threads through the back of the body or through a tailpiece. Feed the plain end through until the ball end sits in its seat. On guitars with a locking tremolo, the process is different and involves clamping the string at the saddle; follow the maker's instructions.
Winding the Tuning Post
This is where most tuning problems come from, so take your time.
- Pull the string along the neck to the post, then measure some slack. A common method is to pull the string a few inches past its post before bending it, so that you end up with a couple of wraps for the thicker strings and a few more for the thin ones. The exact amount varies; you want enough wraps to grip without piling up.
- Thread the string through the hole in the post.
- Bend the string sharply where it exits the hole, then start turning the peg so the string winds downward on the post. Each wrap should sit below the one before.
- Keep light tension on the string with your other hand as you wind, so the wraps are neat.
Downward wraps increase the angle of the string over the nut, which helps it stay seated in the slot.
For the plain (unwound) strings, which can slip, some players use a simple locking wrap: thread the string, bring the loose end back under itself, then wind so the string pins itself in place.
Tune the string roughly to pitch, then move on to the next.
Direction
On most guitars with three tuners per side, the strings wind so they come off the inside of the post toward the centre of the headstock. With six tuners in a line, all strings typically come off the same side. If you are unsure, look at how the old strings were wound before removing them.
Stretching and Settling
New strings stretch. To help them settle:
- Tune each string to pitch.
- Gently pull each string away from the fretboard along its length, a few times.
- Retune. Repeat two or three times.
Expect a little more drift over the next day of playing.
Trimming
Once the strings are holding pitch, cut the excess near the post, leaving a short tail. Sharp string ends can scratch you, and long tails can buzz against the headstock.
Checking the Result
- Play harmonics and fretted notes at the 12th fret. They should match. If not, the intonation may need adjusting, which is part of a setup.
- Listen for buzzing. A new gauge sometimes changes how the strings sit in the nut or how the neck bows.
Choosing Strings
Strings come in different gauges (thicknesses) and materials. Lighter gauges are easier to fret and bend; heavier gauges give more volume and a fuller sound on acoustic guitars. If you change to a very different gauge, the guitar may need a small setup adjustment.
FAQ
Q: Why do my new strings keep going flat? A: They are still stretching. Stretch them gently and retune a few times.
Q: Do I need to clean the fretboard every time? A: No, but a quick wipe when the strings are off keeps things in good shape. Use products made for fretboards, and follow the maker's guidance for the wood type.
Q: Can I reuse old strings? A: You can, but the reason to change them is usually that they have worn out.